A mezzanine adds visual depth to the venue and the boat-shaped pendant light sports an oceanic theme. The owner, who used to sell seafood, cherry-picks each ingredient. Natural flavours always come first in his score with an emphasis on razor-sharp doneness and seasoning. Try his red-braised squid with a snappy bite and heady aromas. Steamed Sanmen mud crab with soy sauce and scallion oil boasts firm meat and buttery roe.