17 March 2026
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Tucked away in a remote corner of France you will find a chef who shies away from the limelight but deserves it more than most. As I first arrived at Les Morainières — Michaël and Ingrid Arnoult’s restaurant that has just received our ultimate award of Three MICHELIN Stars — I parked opposite the restaurant and admired what looks like a typical longère-style farmhouse, but in fact used to be a wine storehouse. As I got out of my car, it soon hit me that I had arrived somewhere that was pretty much in the middle of nowhere.
The commune of Jongieux lies deep in the little-known wine-growing part of Savoie, light-years from the fashionable ski resorts the region is famous for. After studying my map, I understood that I was on the border between the Savoie and Ain départements, which are separated by the River Rhône, in the rugged landscape of the Chartreuse Mountains, without technically being in the Chartreuse. Behind the restaurant, I could see the Mont du Chat and its famous peak, the Dent du Chat.
As my meal approached, I realized that Chef Michaël Arnoult was far from a household name, except among genuine foodies. Not one to blow his own trumpet in the media, I didn’t once see him leave his kitchen during the entire meal; in fact, he is said by others to be the kind of hardworking man who doesn’t waste his words. His success is all the more remarkable for his lack of reliance on the white-jacketed brigades employed in luxury hotel restaurants. Here, the chef works almost entirely alone.
The Evolution of Les Morainières
When first founding their restaurant, Michaël and Ingrid Arnoult set their hearts on this old wine storeroom, built of local stone and clinging to the hillside, and restored it from top to toe. I learned that the renovations were carried out in several phases, evolving the restaurant over time.
The most recent development, coinciding with the awarding of their second MICHELIN Star, opened the lower level with a large picture window that commands views of the winding Rhône, while the hilly Marestel vineyards stretch out at the foot of the restaurant. Wines from these grapes naturally find their place on the list, which is dominated by white wines, most notably Roussette de Savoie made from the Altesse grape variety.
Interiors That Put the Food Center Stage
I went down a flight of steps into the dining area and was greeted by refined, minimalist decor verging on the austere, with a palette of grays that took a back seat to the spectacular view. All the tables face outdoors, and I chose one as close as possible to the window. The only splashes of color in this almost monochrome setting are the tableware and the chef’s dishes, making them pop even more.
Cuisine Rooted in the Region
All the produce selected by Michaël Arnoult echoes the land that surrounds him. For example, he works with lavaret, a local freshwater whitefish also known as féra, from Lake Geneva and other freshwater fish, including catfish. A truffle similar to those found in Burgundy, distinct from the varieties of southwest France, also grows in the region and may appear on the menu. Like many Savoyard chefs, Arnoult sources mushrooms from La Motte-Servolex, which are grown in hillside caves near Chambéry. In particular, I was totally bowled over, as you will see, by the showstopping crayfish used in one of his signature dishes.
Perfectly Harmonious Service
I found the service from Ingrid Arnoult, who has a similarly discreet and understated manner as her husband, provided the perfect complement to the cooking. She devotes herself entirely to ensuring the dishes can be enjoyed as much as possible and are allowed to speak for themselves. She does not dwell on exhaustive descriptions of each and every ingredient and has perfectly understood that her husband’s cuisine has no need for overelaboration. Instead, the food is served hot and guests are invited to dive in without further ado.
Delightful Dishes at Every Turn
I came to Les Morainières without preconceptions and enjoyed what was undoubtedly one of my best meals of the year. The menu unfolded intelligently, alternating between freshness and indulgence; as the meal progressed, the flavors became more concentrated. I loved the fact that the team left the sauce boats on the table too, with an invitation to add more yourself — which I gladly did as the jus and sauces were among the menu’s greatest highlights. On a menu filled with impeccable dishes, here are a few of my favorites.Trout Enhanced by a Gift for Sauces
Beneath a carpaccio of Beaufort trout, I discovered a brunoise of fork-tender carrots, paired with more intensely flavored trout flesh and a sprinkling of trout roe. The dish was bound together by a remarkable sauce of carrot, caraway and lemon that was naturally sweet and deeply aromatic. The sauce boat left on the table encouraged me to leisurely take my time and focus on the superb flavors of the core ingredients.Tartare of Crayfish, the Showstopper
The crayfish was served in the form of a tartare and a bisque, flanked by a slice of toasted brioche to be enjoyed with whipped crayfish butter and fleur de sel. This dish was free of artifice and gimmicky showmanship; instead everything rested on the coherence and harmony of the ingredients. It almost literally swept me off my feet with its immaculate craft. In addition to exquisite plating, it showcased the chef’s manifest talent and elegance, and definitively confirmed his excellence for me.
Plainpalais Cardoons, Masterfully Elevated
Arnoult’s consummate craftsmanship also shone through in his dish of cardoons, an overlooked vegetable sadly on the road to oblivion. It perfectly illustrated the chef’s artistry and ability to elevate a humble vegetable and turn it into a high-flying masterpiece. Truffles were present in the dish too, but it was the profoundly indulgent quality of the dish that I remember, underpinned by a remarkable buttery poultry jus. I adored the decision to shine the spotlight on an ingredient so deeply rooted in both the local terroir and Savoyard tradition.
A Superb Experience From Top to Bottom
Not only was the cuisine itself undoubtedly worthy of our Three Stars, but the whole Les Morainières experience was excellent. The five-course set menu, including an amuse-bouche, pre-dessert, cheese and remarkable mignardises, represented good value at this level of cooking. Meanwhile, the deliberately streamlined wine list was impressive in its own right, rich in hidden gems that won’t break the bank and with a soft spot for local wineries.
Tips From the Inspectors
- Request a table by the picture window to make the most of the view.
- In winter, come for lunch, as by dinnertime the view has disappeared.
- Make the most of your trip by arranging a visit to one of the local wineries.
- Allow plenty of time: The seven- or nine-course tasting menus are designed to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace.
- Given the format, the wine pairing option makes the most sense.
Hero Image: Calf sweetbreads with mushrooms at Les Morainières. © Matthieu Cellard/Les Morainières
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