Tony He may not be a household name, but dim sum enthusiasts know him from his work at Sea Harbour, which he opened in Vancouver in 1999, and then later in Rosemead. Just a few miles down the road in Arcadia, he offers a similar experience in a more casual setting with nary a fish tank in sight and a large window offering views into the kitchen. Steam rises at all hours as chefs prepare delicate bites, like steamed shrimp and scallop dumplings crowned with roe, or sticky rice wrapped in lotus root. Everything is ordered à la carte, so those hoping for roving carts should look elsewhere.