"Accents tell us where someone is from and about their country, their region and their history. It is this idea of openness and discovery that I want to champion, a cuisine made up of encounters and exchanges," declares Ayumi Sugiyama, the Japanese owner and head pastry chef of this contemporary, Scandinavian-styled restaurant. Chef Romain Mahi's score is a combination of purebred classicism with more daring creations and subtle experiments with roasted aromas and smoky flavours: tartlet of aged caviar, fermented milk, nila oil; sweetbread, celery in vin jaune and morels. From start to finish, everything is balanced and precise, right through to the light, impressively crafted desserts: whipped creamy pear, lemon and Jerusalem artichoke ice cream with powder of dried lime. Warm, vibrant front-of-house team.