The rich aroma of dashi broth fills an interior that recalls the warmth of the old days. The restaurant name in kanji is framed on the wall; copper saucepans are polished till gleaming. Preserving tradition at this restaurant, which has been in business since the late 19th century, are the fourth-generation owner-chef, resplendent in bow tie, and the proprietress, dressed in a traditional smock-style apron. The name ‘Takocho’—with ‘tako’ meaning ‘octopus’ —was adopted in the mid-20th century as a nod to the shop’s popular octopus dish. In addition to the menu inscribed on wooden tags, off-menu items are intriguing as well. Light-flavoured broth and Kujo spring onion are quintessentially Kyoto.