With an enviable CV (including Pierre Gagnaire and Jérôme Banctel) under his belt, chef Geoffrey Lengagne has opened this pared-back eatery (polished concrete floor, pale wooden furniture, open kitchen). A champion of seasonal cooking, he uses the freshest ingredients to deliver veggie-, fish- and seafood-centric fare. His modern signature is embodied by marinated cèpe tartlet with figs and cocoa, poultry breast in port wine or agnolotti of squid and braised cod, kohlrabi, pleurotes and a purée of Camus artichokes. The lunch set menu is a bargain - more elaborate lineup in the evening.