It’s easy to forget that the world’s favorite cheese-laden comfort food has ancient, humble roots — as street food for the poorest Neapolitans. Its turning point came in 1889, when Chef Raffaele Esposito is said to have created a pizza topped with tomato, mozzarella and basil in honor of Queen Margherita, helping to transform it into a symbol of Italian cuisine. From there, its popularity spread across Italy, and in the 20th century, around the world. Here, we explore the differences between Rome’s pizza styles and Naples’ original, plus the best places in the city to rediscover it at its most compelling.
1. The One With UNESCO’s Stamp of Approval: Pizza Napoletana
As its name suggests, pizza Napoletana (“Neapolitan” in English) originated in Naples, in southern Italy. This style is so highly regarded that its preparation methods and the artisans involved — such as the master pizzaiolo and baker — have been recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage.But what exactly makes an authentic Neapolitan pizza? According to the Verace Pizza Napoletana Association’s strict criteria, only two types qualify: the marinara, made with tomato, olive oil, oregano and garlic, and the Margherita, which includes tomato, olive oil, buffalo or fior di latte mozzarella, grated cheese and basil.
Both are prepared with dough made from either 0 or 00 flour. Additionally, a true Neapolitan pizza should not exceed 35 cm (14 inches) in diameter, have a cornicione (raised edge) measuring 1-2 cm (1/2 to 3/4 inch) and feature a crust that is both chewy and fluffy.
2. The Homegrown Trio: Pizza Romana, Pizza in Teglia and Pinsa
Rome is no slouch in the pizza stakes either: Not only is it the birthplace of pizza Romana, typically prepared with a rolling pin to achieve a thinner, crispier crust than its southern counterpart, and often sold al taglio (by the slice), but Rome is also home to pizza in teglia (pan pizza), which gained popularity in the 1980s as Roman street food became a thing. This rectangular pizza is baked on large trays rather than in a traditional pizza oven, resulting in a thicker, uniform crust with no edges and a crispy bottom. Its dough usually has a higher moisture content and undergoes longer fermentation.This local pizza trio is completed by pinsa Romana, an oval or rectangular pizza with crispy edges and a soft interior, made from a variety of flours, including wheat, soy, rice and sourdough. Interestingly, the word “pinsa” doesn’t stem from “pizza” (which may derive from the Germanic bizzo, meaning “morsel” or “piece of bread”), but from the Latin pinsere, meaning “to spread.”
3. Why There’s No Stopping When It Comes to Toppings
While we’ve tried to round up the different types of pizzas on offer in Rome, toppings are a trickier proposition, given the exceptional creativity of today’s Italian chefs. Menus usually list traditional options like Margherita, Napoletana, capricciosa and quattro stagioni, alongside seasonal and innovative toppings featuring ingredients lovingly curated by a pizzaiolo, such as marinated raw crustaceans or a mix of rare tomato varieties.Top Roman Pizzerias
With Italian pizza continuing to evolve as a truly democratic culinary delight, here are four Roman eateries that really know their dough:
Antico Forno Roscioli
34 Via dei ChiavariEstablished in 1824, this bakery serves outstanding al taglio pizza crafted with a light, aromatic dough. The white and red pizzas are crowd-pleasers, but you won’t go wrong with the mozzarella, vegetable and premium cold cuts options.
La Renella
Via del Moro 15The signature order at this welcoming, historic pizzeria and bakery in Trastevere? The aromatic pizza con la mortazza (mortadella pizza) features a crispy, flavorful crust. Other highlights include getting to observe the pizzaiolo at work in front of his oven while you wait, and picking up the bakery’s traditional biscuits for dessert.
Forno Campo de' Fiori
Campo de' Fiori 22Some Romans have pizza for breakfast. And so would we all, if we could get our morning slice from this busy bakery in the city center’s market square, where lightly topped flatbread is sold by weight. Be sure to try pizza rossa with tomato sauce or fior di zucca, which features zucchini flower, anchovy and mozzarella.
Trapizzino
88 Giovanni Branca StreetInspired by Roman street food, this relaxed venue transforms standard pizza crust into cute triangular cones filled with classic ingredients like pollo alla cacciatora (chicken cacciatore) and eggplant parmigiana, as well as seasonal options.
Hero Image: Pizza alla romana, with its ultrathin, crisp base, is baked until shatteringly light and defined by its clean bite and restrained toppings. © MICHELIN Guide
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