Dutchman Marcel Koolen is at the helm of the kitchen at this stylishly urban restaurant (housed in 7132 Hotel, a heritage building that is a magnet for design and architecture fans). With the support of his international team and executive chef Matthias Schmidberger, he proposes highly creative cuisine that features pleasing contrasts and accentuates the natural flavours of the wonderful ingredients. Dishes are pared down to the essentials with stunning results. Take, for example, the hake, cooked on a binchotan charcoal grill and accompanied by the characteristic earthiness of a stuffed morel, a buttery morel cream and a drizzle of herb oil. The "Menu Surprise" also comes in a vegetarian version. Wine or house-made alcohol-free pairings are available. The excellent wine list is dominated by Swiss, Italian and French labels – the Bordeaux picks are a real highlight. The selection of perfectly aged vintages is certainly worth exploring. The front-of-house team is professional, charming and always on hand. The chefs, too, join in with serving, and talk you through their creations. A thoughtful touch: small cards on the table present each dish. An aperitif is served in the kitchen, allowing diners a fascinating peek behind the scenes.