09 February 2026
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Nestled on the edge of the Cairngorms National Park, by the gateway the Scottish Highlands, Killiecrankie House is the kind of place often referred to as a ‘destination restaurant’. It’s somewhere you’ll have to travel to, but will be so glad you did. With luxurious bedrooms above the restaurant and a remote, serene feel, couple Tom and Matilda Tsappis have created a place you could come for a romantic weekend away or a big birthday celebration. At the heart of this appeal, of course, is the cooking. Recently awarded its first MICHELIN Star, my dinner at Killiecrankie House will remain long in my memory.
A Rural Slice of Paradise
One thing that struck me when arriving at Killiecrankie House was how rural and tranquil it felt, despite being situated just off a dual carriageway. Not 10 minutes earlier, me and another Inspector had just driven past the town of Pitlochry, and before we knew it, we were here, in an idyllic pocket of the rural Scotland.
Surrounded by well-kept grounds, the period house was looking majestic as we approached. While the weather was not on our side that day, in the summer you can take your pre-dinner drinks in the garden, looking out over ingredients being grown for the kitchen. Instead, we settled in the lovely sitting room, where the vinyl records playing in the background added a personal, retro touch.
Once in the dining room, I was struck by how similar it felt to many restaurants I’ve been to in the Nordic countries. The cool, minimalistic design was all focused around the open kitchen, with each table positioned so it had a view of the chefs.
A Warm Welcome
The friendly, inviting atmosphere at Killiecrankie House all flows from the superb service team, marshalled by Matilda, who also acts as sommelier. As soon as we arrived, we were welcomed by smiling faces who remained attentive throughout the evening. There was no excessive formality, just a genuine desire for guests to have a good time that instantly put everyone at ease.
For the majority of the evening, the chefs remained in the kitchen and the front-of-house team kept things flowing smoothly. After the menu had finished however, when we returned to the sitting room for coffee and petits fours, Chef Tom appeared and chatted at length with all of his guests.
Thanks to the relaxed air he and Matilda have created – along with the building’s small size meaning this is a genuine restaurant with rooms, not a grand country house hotel – I felt like I was just stepping into their home, as a guest for a particularly special dinner party.
Japanese Techniques Meet Scottish Produce
A key characteristic of Tom’s cooking is the notable Japanese influence in his dishes, informed by his travels. Unlike some chefs jumping on this recent trend, he utilises these techniques in a measured way to enhance the ingredients and preserve clarity of flavour. Sometimes subtle, sometimes overt, the Japanese elements are always used in service of the outstanding Scottish produce.Throughout a lengthy tasting menu, these were some of the stand-out courses.
Snacks
The snacks were delivered to accompany our pre-dinner drinks. First was a refreshing 'tea' of rhubarb and preserved tomato from the garden, which demonstrated the kitchen’s knack for balancing flavours. Next up was a small, crisp tartlet of finely diced Bluefin tuna belly, accompanied by romesco and caviar. Another tartlet combinedkimchee with chewy cubes of dehydrated beetroot, which had a lovely earthiness.
There was a similarly earthy quality to a cube of lightly crisp chickpea panisse harbouring smoked mushroom duxelles and Australian truffle. Finally, there was an original and proudly Scottish snack of dripping-fried porridge – the crispy fried oats were topped with a pickled walnut purée that provided balancing acidity.
Oat Tofu – Doubanjiang, Black Sesame, Rose
Combining a love of East Asian cuisine with a passion for local ingredients, this house-made tofu was fashioned using oats, rather than the usual soybeans. The silky-smooth dome had a beautifully delicate texture and possessed a slightly roasted taste, along with a subtle amount of sesame. Enlivening the dish was the lip-smackingly good doubanjiang, a Chinese sauce made from fermented broad beans.
Apple – Discovery, Granny Smith, Pink Lady, Ginger, Dill
We both agreed that the desserts were one of the kitchen’s biggest strengths during our dinner, starting with this immaculately composed dish. Three balls of lightly cooked Discovery apples were topped with pretty 'flowers' made from the Pink Lady variety, while a superb Granny Smith sorbet really elevated the flavours. The sauce made from ginger, dill and apple was complex, original and brought all the components together in a masterful way.64% Chocolate, Sunflower Seed, Lime, Sambal
Another convincing dessert made with great precision, this consisted of a base layer of chocolate ganache, drizzled with a thick miso caramel sauce. Small cubes of lime jelly added a hint of acidity; crispy sunflower seeds provided a satisfying crunch; and the miso ice cream was deliciously smooth. The inspired finishing touch was the addition of sambal (spicy shrimp paste), which added a gentle spiced note.Inspector’s Tips
- Allow plenty of time to get here, as you’ll want to take your time driving through the beautiful Scottish Highlands. That said, it’s less than a two-hour drive from both Glasgow and Edinburgh, so if you’re coming from afar, why not break the journey and enjoy one of the MICHELIN-Star restaurants the cities have to offer?
- If you’re going to be dining near the Cairngorms National Park, it would be a crime not to take the opportunity to explore it further. There are a number of stunning hikes in the area, along with several castles for the history buffs. Near Pitlochry, there are whisky distillery tours and the famous Pitlochry Dam and Fish Ladder.
- Once you arrive, you won’t want to leave Killiecrankie House’s comforting embrace – so ensure you book in advance to secure one of their on-site bedrooms, which are recommended by The MICHELIN Guide’s hotel Inspectors.
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Hero Image: One of Tom Tsappis' dishes at Killiecrankie House, the new MICHELIN-Star restaurant near the Scottish Highlands. © Alex Baxter/Killiecrankie House
