Italy

In her latest rollicking read, author Katie Parla — an American authority on Rome — brings together her two obsessions: the capital’s layered history and its cuisine. Here, she unpacks the era that fascinates her most, shares the Roman dishes, restaurants, and food souvenirs she actually rates, and explains why she pushes back against the cult of nonna-style cooking.

When she first burst onto Rome’s food scene 20 years ago with her bright pink hair, everyone told Cristina Bowerman she’d never earn the MICHELIN seal of approval because of her unconventional style. Today, the only female chef in Italy’s capital ever to have a MICHELIN-Starred restaurant, Glass Hostaria, she remains committed to her vision of a more inclusive, exciting and rule-breaking Roman food industry. Here, she shares the local spots already making that a reality.

At One-MICHELIN-Starred INEO, Chef Heros De Agostinis blends the skills he honed while training under chefs leading multi-Starred restaurants with the diverse influences of his neighborhood, multicultural Esquilino, and his Abruzzian-Eritrean heritage. The result? Italian cooking that sidesteps clichés and is resolutely current — along with a bread cart that’s already the stuff of legend.

How to tell Rome’s distinctive pizza styles apart — and where to find the city’s most unforgettable slices.

Following its recent revamp for last year’s Jubilee, Rome is at its most vibrant — and delicious — right now. With 48 hours, there’s ample time to dive into the Eternal City’s culinary soul, from neighborhood trattorias and historic markets to gelato counters and late-night wine bars, while still soaking up its layers of history, art and unforgettable street life.

Rome may not be Italy’s pasta capital in production, but it is home to some of its most iconic dishes — carbonara, Amatriciana and gricia — drawing visitors from around the world to taste the city’s classic Roman recipes.

For a city so heavily visited, Rome’s independent shops have proved remarkably resilient against international chains and tourist-heavy storefronts, sustained by spirited owners and singular, often family-run offerings. From boutique fashion addresses to historic food markets, this is a curated guide to shopping in Rome like a local.

The street food markets of Rome have become vibrant culinary hubs in recent years. Here, simple stalls and small counters serve quick lunches, aperitivo snacks and affordable dishes made with excellent ingredients and traditional craftsmanship.

The traditional dining experience in Italy is famously familial, unfussy and warm — but even in the coziest spots, feeling at home can take some adjusting.

In Florence, the only thing better than the view is what’s on your plate — and this city knows how to dish out both in style.

More budget-friendly than the city's grand dame hotels, Florence's boutique hotel stays trade lavish amenities for a cozy, home-like charm.

Dining in Italy is more about feasting than snacking, but what if you’re on a dream solo trip of a lifetime? Our Inspectors have given us their top picks for dining solo in Florence.

Kicking off this list is a hotel just 20 minutes from Florence. From vineyards and infinity pools to farm-to-table dining, each of these 12 Tuscan gems lies within a two-hour reach of the city.

Some chefs innovate to impress. Others cook at the highest level simply to offer the pure pleasure of dining. Enoteca Pinchiorri, the Florence institution that has held Three MICHELIN Stars since 2004, belongs emphatically to the latter camp. This is how it feels to experience it — through the eyes of our Inspector.

In the center of Florence, these splurge-worthy hotels have the design and prestige to rival even that most historic of city landmarks.

Florence’s most sought-out dishes are unfairly limited to (admittedly delicious) wild boar ragu-drenched pasta, savory charcuterie with cave aged pecorino, meaty bistecca alla Fiorentina and Old World red wines to wash it all down. However, the true stars are the seasonal foods locals eagerly await — and celebrate — with each changing month.

A neighborhood-by-neighborhood guide to the real Florence, with the best food stops along the way.

Discover Tuscan tranquility at one of our favorite serene hotels in Florence, as well as up to 30 minutes away from the iconic Duomo and the heart of the city.