Christopher Kostow’s casual-cool retreat continues to be a well-regarded and rightly applauded Napa mainstay. With soaring ceilings and a hulking hearth, the beautifully restored dining room is a proper setting for the chef's California cooking. Much of the featured produce comes from their own farm, and a whole bounty is on full display in a simple bowl of just-plucked veggies, best matched with a fermented soy dip. Chicken with preserved lemon and a side of rice with house-cultured butter is a classic, as is the beloved cheeseburger. Nearly everything from mains to sides bears traces of the flames and is best enjoyed as a group. A starter of aged beef tartare with ember mayo and milk bread may just be one of the finest versions we’ve seen yet.