Husband-and-husband team Tam Pham and Harrison Ramhofer are throwing a party on their own terms. On the edge of downtown by the county courthouse, you won’t find a glamorous room, a DJ booth, or anybody in stilettos or designer sneakers. There is no bouncer by the door. Instead, come as you are for this celebration of Vietnamese cooking that started out as a supper club. Much of the food doesn’t require silverware: Think wings glossed in fish sauce caramel, smoky lamb with lettuce wraps and banh hoi noodles, and tamarind-glazed pork ribs. Finish with a slice of cheesecake made with cultured cashew cream and topped with passionfruit gelee. Bold, funky, and fun, the restaurant is a good time all around, down to the hidden karaoke machine.