Chef Olga Cabrera is a force to know. A stone’s throw away from the famous church in Centro Histórico, Cabrera runs three different businesses within a single building. A bakery stocked with sweets perfumes the room, while her Atoleria pours cups of coffee and hot chocolate. The actual restaurant is further back, past the comals cooking tetelas, memelas, tacos and tlayudas, and up the stairs to the shaded rooftop. While serving dishes from her childhood and classics from today, she celebrates farmers and their products, and puts their stories front and center. Salsa made tableside is a welcome touch, followed by fragrant soups and lovely, hearty moles (Laurel mole is  a winner.) Lunchtime brings welcome views of the surrounding mountain ranges.