Are we in San Sebastian or Toronto? Open day and night since 2015, Grant van Gameren’s ode to Spain continues to be just the kind of place to get lost in and lose track of time. The cozy room is a vision, a stunning cocoon of curved, South African mahogany that wraps around every surface. The menu is equally small but offers a striking roster of conservas and pinxtos. Briny boquerones laid over stracciatella are a must, as are the plucky shrimp a la planxa coated in a riot of smoked paprika, cumin and garlic. Indeed, guests will graze and graze until they’ve run out of things to order. There’s plenty to drink here, too, with a host of talented bartenders ready to mix and pour sherries, highballs and smart cocktails.