06 February 2026
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Few, if any, people in food have done more to advance the global understanding of Thai cuisine as David Thompson. First with the world’s first MICHELIN Star for Thai cuisine at Nahm in London and later through other projects, the legendary chef helped rewrite the narrative around a cuisine long seen as delicious yet inexpensive. His connection to Thai food started in the 1980s, sparking a lifelong dedication to its culture and traditions. He also played a pivotal role in defining modern Thai fine dining. Once Thai food finally had its spotlight, he built a platform that has allowed other chefs, such as Prin Polsuk of Samrub Samrub Thai, Sittikorn “Au” Chantop of AKKEE and Duangporn “Bo” Songvisava and Dylan Jones of Bo.lan, to carry it forward.
Since opening Aksorn in 2020, during one of the most tumultuous moments the industry has ever faced, he has continued to champion Thai culinary heritage with curiosity, rigor and his trademark candor.
On the restaurant’s fifth anniversary, he looks back at what has changed, what still matters, winning Thailand’s first Mentor Chef of the Year award, presented by WP Energy, and why he wants himself to “shut up and just relax.”
What was it like opening Aksorn during the pandemic?
“[Aksorn opened during] the pandemic. We thought it was a sniffle, and we decided to keep our staff on, paying them across all of our businesses. And it turned out to be more than just a little sniffle. We lost a lot of money keeping people on. But morally, I thought we were right. And I’d do it again because it builds up loyalty. It’s not just expecting your staff to look after you because you pay them. You’ve got to show them, too.That’s why I’ve got staff hanging around with me for years. I flee from country to country, restaurant to restaurant, venue to venue, and they still follow me. I don’t know how to get rid of them. They’re stuck. It’s a social contract. Many of them become friends.”
What has changed for you since then?
“I used to insist upon a dogged following of recipes. Now, I let good cooks change things — if it’s good. A good cook uses a recipe as a guide and adds themselves to it. It would be hypocritical of me to stand in the way of that.If I remove the one element that gives cooks satisfaction beyond anything else — that instinct to be themselves — what do they have left? I would never have said that 20 years ago. I’ve matured.”
“If I reach the end of my life and still retain a sense of trust, decency and kindness, that’s success.”
You’ve worked closely with many cooks who’ve gone on to elevate Thailand’s dining scene. When you look back, what did they understand early on that many others didn’t?
“There are very few cooks I’ve worked with who have not only natural instinct but also the hunger to strive [for more] — the volition to understand more than just instinctively and to combine those elements effortlessly, so [the vision for their food] lands on the plate with pleasure and joy.Prin [Polsuk] has that. So does Pae [Patipan Jitpromma, head chef of Aksorn]. A few others have gone on to great success. I’ve seen some become eccentric. But what wonderful cooks they are.
Bo [Duangporn Songvisava] is as curious and indefatigable as a Jack Russell Terrier. She’s incredibly smart. On her two hours off, she is now doing a new degree, as well as pottery and a few other things. To me, it’s baffling. If you have two hours off, wouldn’t you want to just relax?
Dylan [Jones] is steadfast. Dylan is reliable.
You can’t teach people like them all that much. You can only help scrape off the unnecessary stuff so they can become themselves.”
What brings you the most joy in this profession?
“The act of creation is one of the most satisfying things. Very few jobs maintain that. I don’t think Excel spreadsheets will ever offer such pleasure, unless you’re particularly perverse or a serial killer.Cooks are Neanderthals. They’ll suffer hardship for that one moment of personal satisfaction. You have that private satisfaction on the plate, and you have that public satisfaction when great front of house [service] delivers it.”
What’s a common misperception people have about you?
People misunderstand me all the time. I mumble and speak too quickly, so they're bound to misunderstand me.I used to be far more efficient, more dominant. I insisted upon rules and controlled through recipes. I ruled by laughter and blackmail. I’d like to think I’m far more egalitarian now. I can anticipate problems and deal with them rather than yell. Cooks learn from mistakes.”
Was there a defining moment when you realised you had achieved something significant?
“My understanding of success is based on my internal satisfaction. When I excavate an old recipe — dusting off the patina of age and of the grave — and bring it back to life, that’s it. I feel better than Doctor Frankenstein.The spotlight is fantastic, but it’s hollow if you don’t have that sense of satisfaction in yourself.”
What do you think of awards then?
“They’re nice. Vindication is nice. But if you chase fame rather than the craft, it’s bound to lead to disappointment. Most people will never achieve that level of success, and if they do, it rarely lasts. Money can come and go. Internal values are more important.”“The spotlight is fantastic, but it’s hollow if you don’t have that sense of satisfaction in yourself.”
What advice would you give your younger self when you first started cooking Thai food?
“Shut up and just relax. I was ambitious, agitated, and impatient. Sometimes what you fear is worse in your imagination than what happens in reality. Let things occur. Deal with it when it happens.”You’ve become a role model to many. Who has been a role model for you?
“I’ve never really had a role model. I respect everybody, especially the kids underneath. When you’re near the top, you don’t need that much encouragement anymore. Those down at the bottom need the most support.”What is success to you?
“It’s not about money or fame. If I reach the end of my life and still retain a sense of trust, decency and kindness, that’s success. External things are trinkets.”You’ve taught so many chefs. What do you think you are to those chefs?
“An example of what not to do. You can’t teach them that much. You can only help scrape off the unnecessary stuff so they become themselves.”What are the characteristics of a good chef?
“I used to look for provenance. Now, I look for character, intelligence, and curiosity. The rigour of great kitchens can hold people up. When [they are] removed from that, some don’t perform. A good cook has instinct. When I cook, I never think. I just follow instinct.”How do you feel about the way people address you at work?
“The kitchen and cooks are, by their very nature, unmemorable… [but] you always hear that plaintive expression: ‘chef, chef.’ As soon as I hear that term [in the kitchen], I flee because I know it’s a problem.”How would you like to be addressed in the kitchen then?
“Where’s David?”“When you’re near the top, you don’t need that much encouragement anymore. Those down at the bottom need the most support.”
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What is one tip you’d give people who want to become a chef?
“Chase the taste. Thai cuisine is instinctual. It doesn’t follow logic or category. If you try to impose rationale upon it, you’ll be frustrated. Use the technique as scaffolding only.”How do you feel about receiving this Mentor Chef award?
“I feel very surprised also feel fortunate in having the pleasure, no, the irritation of working with those awkward young cooks, who turned out to be quite exceptional. And I’ve had some people I had a good fortune to work with who taught me more than I’ve ever done for them."The MICHELIN Guide Mentor Chef Award honors chefs whose unwavering dedication to nurturing the next generation has made a lasting impact on the culinary industry. Marking a milestone for Thailand, the country’s first-ever Mentor Chef Award, presented by WP Energy, a leading LPG distributor under the “Worldgas” brand, fuels daily life across Thailand as an integrated energy company committed to empowering people and communities. We believe energy is more than power — it is passion, inspiration and connection.
Supporting Thailand’s culinary world and improving quality of life are central to our philosophy: “WP Energy for Life.” Just as energy sustains life, progress is driven by vision and the spark that inspires others. Today, we honor the spirit that moves industries forward — the creativity, resilience and dedication that leave a lasting impact. True greatness is reflected not only in accomplishments but also in the influence that shapes the future.
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Header image: Chef David Thompson, the first recipient of the MICHELIN Guide Mentor Chef Award in Thailand. ©The MICHELIN Guide Thailand
This post is brought to you in partnership with WP Energy
