At this discreet Japanese restaurant, hidden behind a large door that you have to knock on to gain access and which almost seems to be a 'secret' address given its scarce signage, the concept is based around much more than a working philosophy as the skill of the chef is viewed as a veritable art form here. In this resolutely contemporary space, you’ll find a somewhat surprising wood-fired oven in the centre of the dining room, large fish-maturing cabinets, an impressive U-shaped counter where you can watch the culinary action unfold, and more conventional tables for those who prefer a more intimate meal. The cuisine of chef Hideki Matsuhisa, which brings together Japanese techniques and Mediterranean ingredients, always focuses on well-conceived pairings and a hint of creativity and is based around three tasting menus that vary solely in their number of courses. We can highly recommend the Shun Yasai Namako course, with seasonal vegetables cooked to perfection (all with an incredible texture), a cod and scallop pilpil and, finally, half a grilled spelt.