On the corner of Rue Saint Laurent and Rue des Bouchers, Luc Catherine in the kitchen and Stéphanie Amy in the dining room have brilliantly preserved the soul of this establishment, following a warm, fashionable makeover featuring bare stones and beams. Top-notch ingredients, indulgent, nostalgic recipes and artful plating are the name of the game: gazpacho of green peas with an organic poached egg; smoked pork cutlet with saté-laced risotto of noodles and a cheesecake version of Breton shortbread. Slick service and sensible prices: what’s not to like?