There are few addresses better than this one that offer such an up-close view of tortilla-making excellence. Chef-owner Gabriela Fernandez Orantes has been celebrating heirloom varietals of corn since opening back in 2001. The menu is chock full of memelitas, tetelas, quesadillas and more, and everyone is welcome to stand close, right by the kitchen, and watch as chefs work with fresh masa that’s been nixtamalized and stone-ground in house. Pressed, shaped and slowly cooked on a hot comal, tortillas of all kinds arrive garnished and stuffed with melted cheese and paired with the likes of squash blossoms, pork lard and hot salsas. While you wait, sip on a cool glass of the corn and chocolate-infused tascalate.