A breath of immortality hovers over this restaurant, where great Piedmontese cuisine finds one of its finest expressions thanks to the Cordero family. Elide at the stoves, her husband Enrico and son Giampiero in the dining room – the latter a profound wine connoisseur and guardian of an extraordinary, ever-growing cellar – carry forward with passion a venue taken over by Giampiero’s grandparents in 1956. Here, tradition takes center stage with hearty, flavor-rich dishes that never tire: from bread agnolotti filled with anchovy and a hint of thyme to the classic braised cheek with caramelized figs. In summer, the offering lightens with some seafood options, while an autumn visit calls for a proper white truffle dish; we suggest the classic egg tajarin. In January, February, and March, the legendary fritto misto del Centro returns, an epic 12-course sequence from savory to sweet, to be reserved well in advance. Just steps from the restaurant are the elegant rooms of Dimora Cordero.